Chemical peels are an underutilized modality that can provide significant benefits, according to Dr. Seaver L. Soon, immediate past president of the International Peeling Society and chair of the International Peeling Society-USA. Dr. Soon shared what dermatology clinicians should know about using superficial and medium depth chemical peels for pigmentary disorders in an interview with Next Steps in Derm, in partnership with Pigmentary Disorders Exchange Symposium. Watch as Dr. Soon outlines what to consider and how to minimize risks before, during and after treatment. Plus learn the role retinoids and hydroquinone play in minimizing the risks of irritation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Further Reading
If you want to read more about using chemical peels in darker skin tones, check out the following articles published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology:
ABSTRACT
Background: Facial chemical peels are highly sought after by patients with photodamage, acne, and melasma. An advanced, physician-strength superficial peel, containing 3% retinol with other firming and volumizing ingredients was developed to exfoliate, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and plump and firm skin, while promoting a bright, even complexion.
Objective: A clinical study was conducted to evaluate the tolerability, safety, and efficacy of the 3% retinol peel with a supportive homecare regimen across a range of peel candidates, females aged 18-65 years, with photodamage, acne, hyperpigmentation or melasma, and skin of color, over a series of 2-4 peels.
Method: The 3% retinol peel formulation was administered under physician direction in 6-week intervals. Subjects with photodamaged skin, acne, hyperpigmentation/melasma, or skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI) received 2-4 peels along with a supportive homecare regimen. Dermatologist grading, self-assessment, and digital photography documented tolerability and efficacy parameters.
Results: 24 subjects participated in the study with a total of 78 peels administered (Photodamage group, n=14 [with an Acne subgroup, n=5]; Melasma group, n=5; Skin of Color, n=5). The 3% retinol peel along with the homecare regimen was well tolerated under physician direction in all skin types and conditions assessed. Obvious peeling was noticeable in many subjects 3 days post-peel and resolved by day 7. In the photodamaged group, dermatologist clinical grading of fine lines, wrinkles, pore size, laxity, mottled pigmentation, lack of clarity/radiance, and overall photodamage was significantly improved (P<0.05). Benefits were observed in all groups and supported by self-assessment. Digital photography demonstrated tolerability in the days immediately post-peel, along with benefits to photodamage.
Conclusion: The 3% retinol superficial peel was well tolerated and an efficacious cosmetic treatment under physician supervision in subjects of all skin types to firm skin, improve fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a bright, even complexion.
ABSTRACT
Dyschromia is one of the primary complaints for patients with skin of color. Treatments need to achieve a balance between tolerability and efficacy to address existing hyperpigmentation without causing additional damage that could trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). An open-label, single-center study was conducted to assess the efficacy of a novel comprehensive pigmentation control serum (LYT2) combined with a series of three very superficial chemical peels (VP) in skin of color subjects. Seventeen female and male subjects aged 36 to 69 years with Fitzpatrick Skin Types III-VI and moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation were enrolled in the 12-week clinical study. Subjects identified as Asian, Hispanic, African American, or Caucasian ethnicities. Subjects received a series of 3 VP treatments every 4 weeks. LYT2 was applied twice-daily in between VP treatments. Investigator assessments for overall hyperpigmentation, overall photodamage, and skin tone unevenness, as well as standardized digital photography and subject self-assessment questionnaires were conducted at all visits (baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12). In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) of a target lesion was conducted (in a subset of subjects) at baseline and week 12. Fourteen subjects completed the study. The treatment regimen provided statistically significant improvements in all efficacy parameters at weeks 8 and 12 (all P less than equal to 0.03, students t-test). Standardized digital photography and RCM images support the improvements in overall hyperpigmentation observed by the investigator. At the end of treatment, the regimen was highly rated by subjects with 100% of subjects (strongly agree/agree) that the combination decreased the appearance of uneven skin tone and discolorations and reduced the appearance of sun damage. In addition to this clinical study, independent case studies with this combination treatment regimen at a separate study site were also conducted with results that corroborate the formal clinical study findings. The comprehensive results from these studies suggest that the combination of a comprehensive pigmentation control serum with a series of 3 very superficial chemical peels may provide an effective treatment approach for hyperpigmentation in skin of color patients.
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