Derm Topics

Patient Buzz Series: Spicule Skin Care

Spicule skin care is touted as “liquid microneedling,” according to a review by NBC News. In the article, dermatologist Dr. Marie Jhin explains that spicules come from marine sponges and have needle-like features, which can help stimulate ingredient penetration. Dermatologist Dr. Eleonora Fedonenko considers spicules similar to exfoliants with the added benefit of creating micro-injuries to the skin that can stimulate collagen and cell turnover. Spicules are now added to products with active ingredients, such as PDRN and exosomes, for a microneedling-like benefit. Dr. Fedoneko warns those with a compromised skin barrier should avoid products with spicules as using these products could enhance inflammation.

The peptide metrixyl is gaining popularity as an alternative to retinol. According to an article by Real Simple, metrixyl is a family of peptides that activates fibroblasts in the skin to create more collagen. According to dermatologist Dr. Whitney Hovenic, metrixyl mimics the skin’s natural mechanisms of repair, which produces results without toleration issues. Dr. Hovenic says user results over time include firmer and plumper skin, and improved fine lines, tone, and texture. 

Black ginseng extract is the latest skincare ingredient gaining press. Verywell Health profiled the K-beauty anti-aging ingredient, which is produced when ginseng is processed. According to the article, lab research shows black ginseng may reduce signs of inflammatory-driven skin aging as well as wrinkles and sagging. In addition, research indicates black ginseng may be a tyrosinase inhibitor, potentially leading to a more uniform skin tone when applied topically. Dermatologists Dr. Brendan Camp and Tonya Kormeili, who were quoted in the article, stress that clinical trials in humans are needed to determine clinical efficacy.

The skincare world is ever changing. Don’t get caught off guard by your patients. Peruse these consumer articles for the latest skin, hair, and nail trends:

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